Lighthouse of the Week: Duxbury Pier Light, Massachusetts

This stout, coffeepot-shaped lighthouse is known fondly to locals as “Bug Light,” or simply “The Bug.” Located in Duxbury Bay, in the main channel to Plymouth Harbor, it occupies an important niche in lighthouse history as the first offshore cast-iron caisson lighthouse in the United States. Built in 1871, the lighthouse contained three levels below the lantern, including two levels that served as living quarters. The first keeper was William Atwood, who stayed until 1878.

Like so many offshore lighthouses, “The Bug” was a rough assignment for keepers. In early February 1875 the revenue steamer Gallatin was in the vicinity when the captain noticed a signal of distress flying at the lighthouse. The tower was surrounded by so much ice that it was impossible to reach the keeper by boat. The steamer got close enough so that the crew could converse with Atwood, and they learned that he had not been off the lighthouse since December 22 and his supplies of food and water were gone. The keeper and his wife had been reduced to a pint of water a day for several days. Two of the crewmen from the steamer spent two hours cutting through the ice to get a small boat to the lighthouse, and the Atwoods were furnished with supplies.

Getting to and from the lighthouse was a challenge in itself. Keeper Tolman Spencer was fortunate to escape with his life in a harrowing episode in late December 1920. Spencer had gone ashore to visit with his wife, and he left in the afternoon to row back to the lighthouse to light up for the evening while his wife attended a movie. When evening arrived, Mrs. Spencer knew something was amiss when she saw from shore that the light wasn’t lit. The Coast Guard at the Gurnet section of Plymouth was alerted, and they sent a man to light the light, while other crewmen searched for the missing keeper.

The Coast Guardsmen couldn’t find Spencer, so the keeper’s wife went to the police. She went out in a motorboat with two men, vowing to find her husband. Well out in the harbor, they discovered Spencer, who had been unable to make any progress as he rowed with all his might against the increasing wind and tide. He was pulled into the motorboat and immediately collapsed from exhaustion. The keeper and his wife were taken to the lighthouse, and Spencer eventually recovered.

Harry Salter, a Cape Cod native, became the Coast Guard officer in charge in 1944. Salter was at the station when the damaging hurricane of 1944 hit, battering the isolated station with 30-foot waves. He described the scene: “The gigantic waves were hammering this stout little light station unmercifully. It shook so bad we had trouble keeping the oil lamps lit. . . . The heavy seas on the east side were striking against the light, then crashing up under the catwalk and tearing away at our boat that we had previously lashed high on the davits.”

The station was automated and destaffed in 1964, and some restoration was completed in the 1980s. In 1993, the Coast Guard talked of replacing the lighthouse with a fiberglass pole, or at least removing the lantern. Dr. Don Muirhead of Duxbury, an avid sailor, spearheaded a new preservation effort. In 1994–95, 30 volunteers spent more than 420 man/woman hours cleaning, scraping, sanding, and painting.

Project Bug Light eventually took over responsibility for the care of Plymouth (“Gurnet”) Light as well, and the name of the organization was changed to match its mission. In the fall of 2001, Project Gurnet and Bug Lights hired the Campbell Construction Group of Beverly, Massachusetts, for another major renovation.

I had photographed almost every other lighthouse in Massachusetts before this one. It remained a speck seen from the Plymouth waterfront until I got a boat ride with the Campbell Construction crew in 2001. It’s always an adventure visiting an isolated, offshore lighthouse; I wish more of the public had the opportunity to experience this rare treat.

To read more, visit www.lighthouse.cc/duxbury/history.html or get the book “The Lighthouses of Massachusetts.”

For more on Project Gurnet and Bug Lights, visit www.buglight.org

Lighthouse of the Week - Sakonnet Light, Rhode Island

I'm always drawn to the isolated, offshore lighthouses because of the dramatic human history that's often associated with them. That's certainly the case with this wave-swept beacon, located offshore from Little Compton, Rhode Island. I had photographed all the other lights in RI before this one, except for the distant view available from the beach at Little Compton. In recent years I've been lucky enough to view it from a boat and from a helicopter.

The name "Sakonnet," by the way, is said to come from a local Indian word for "abode of the black goose." The Sakonnet River, actually an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean, separates Tiverton and Little Compton from the busier Aquidneck Island to the west. If you stop around here for jonnycakes (cornmeal pancakes) or a cabinet (milkshake), you might hear someone use the old time pronunciation, “S’cunnet.”

Back to the human drama. Here's an excerpt from my book, The Lighthouses of Rhode Island (Commonwealth Editions, 2006):

Life at offshore lighthouses could be stressful in many ways, particularly when personality conflicts developed between keepers. For several years in the 1930s, the first assistant keeper of Sakonnet Light was Samuel Fuller, who had a long career in the lighthouse service. The second assistant keeper from 1937 to 1939 was Ralph L. Sellers. A maintenance man named George Nemetz later recalled a confrontation between the two men.

During a January rainstorm, probably in 1937, Sellers was relaxing with a book by the kitchen stove. William H. Durfee, the head keeper, was away from the station. Tensions had apparently been building for some time between Sellers and Fuller, but Sellers was nevertheless shocked when he suddenly sensed sharp, chilly pressure from a yard-long icicle being pressed against his neck by Fuller.

Sellers jumped up, ran to a drawer, and grabbed a butcher knife. The two men circled round and round a center post. As the weird waltz continued, the heat inside the lighthouse melted Fuller’s weapon, and Sellers broke the icicle with his knife. Fuller ran through a door to the gallery outside, and Sellers locked the door behind him. According to Nemetz, Fuller remained outside for two days before a passing fishing boat picked him up. He managed to stay somewhat warm by lying on a spot on the floor that was directly over the fog signal machinery. Both Sellers and Fuller were transferred to other locations, and they never worked at the same lighthouse again.

If that's not dramatic enough, read the account of the catastrophic hurricane of 1938 on my site at http://lighthouse.cc/sakonnet/history.html. The aftermath of that storm was summed by one of the keepers: "We were surprised when we looked to the point and saw that everything had been washed away."

The Friends of Sakonnet Lighthouse have been caring for this cast-iron structure for more than 20 years. As anyone involved in lighthouse preservation knows, the care of an offshore lighthouse is daunting and very expensive. I was very pleased to see that the Friends were granted funds from the federal Transportation Enhancement Program in 2006.

I recently received this restoration update from architect Deane Rykerson, based on a presentation given by John Wathne of Structures North:

The structure is a cast-iron drum with an interior lining of brick. The structure tapers with thick flanged iron sheets engaging masonry. Although this is not truly a structural composite, the iron and brick interlock in such a way that one cannot move without the other moving. Brick growth, natural cement mortar harder than the bricks of the liner, and corrosion jacking on the inner faces and joints of the iron sheets, work together to announce the lighthouse's deterioration as a "paint problem" to passing recreation boaters. The primary problem with corrosion, and the primary consequence of paint failure, occurs at the joints of the panels of the drum, which are bolted but not welded and no longer watertight on the exterior.

Structures North decided to tear out the existing brick liner in vertical "lifts," dropping it into the void of the caisson below. This avoids the costs and environmental issues of disposal of the brick at this off-shore site. The cast iron will be shot blasted on both sides then painted with a 3-part paint system (zinc-rich primer, epoxy, and polyurethane top coat). New brick will be brought to the site to replace the ruined liner. The project is currently working its way through permitting at the Rhode Island Department of Transportation. John is full of admiration for his client group who has stayed with the project enthusiastically - even as its complications unfolded.

I wish the Friends success and good luck in all their efforts. You can read more about Sakonnet Light on my site at http://lighthouse.cc/sakonnet/history.html

Great American Lighthouses at the Morris Arboretum

Here's something cool for anyone who might be visiting Philadelphia this summer (May 23 - October 13):

Great American Lighthouses returns as the 2009 theme for Morris Arboretum's Summer Garden Railway display. With a changing theme each year, the Garden Railway is featuring historic buildings and Great American Lighthouses, some of the guardians that embody America's long relationship with the sea. These are the lighthouses that will be displayed this year: Boston Harbor Light, Brant Point Light, Cape Hatteras Light, East Brother Island Light, Fort Thompkins Light, Mukilteo Light, Old Point Loma Lighthouse, Pass A L'Outre Light, Race Rock Lighthouse, Sandy Hook Light, St. Joseph North Pierhead Lights, Whitefish Point Light, Thomas Point Shoal Light, Whaleback Lighthouse, Whitehead Light Station, Yaquina Bay Light.

All structures are created entirely of natural materials, each meticulously detailed with leaves, bark, vines, twigs, mosses and acorns. Hollow logs, branches and old railroad ties are also used to create unique tunnels, with a cascading waterfall completing the magic and drama to the already-exciting exhibit.

Nestled in this landscape are more than 1,000 feet of track, with ten G scale trains, representing various railroads throughout history. Two trolley car lines, Three cog lines. There is a constant flow of these wending their way across the terrain among woody plants, colorful annuals and perennials. One train passes over a giant trestle that visitors stroll beneath. The finished product is an enchanting landscape that never ceases to delight visitors both young and old.

The lighthouses and the display itself were designed by landscape architect and set designer Paul Busse of Applied Imagination -- http://www.appliedimagination.biz -- in Alexandria, Kentucky. He and his staff spent many hours painstakingly constructing the lighthouse models. Busse has always been interested in lighthouses, and he realized that their popularity made them a natural focus for the garden railway display.

The Morris Arboretum is located in the Chestnut Hill Section of Philadelphia PA. at 100 E. Northwestern Ave.

Adult $14.00, Senior (65+years) $12.00, Youth (3-17 years) $7.00.
Student (must have ID) Children less than 3 Free. & Members Free

For more information call 215-247-5777 or http://www.morrisarboretum.org

Outdoor Dining service is available at the Café Morris under the spacious tent located in back of the Widener Visitor Center, for hours of operation call http://www.morrisarboretum.org
215-247-5777

Getting Attention

I launched this new blog site yesterday (April Fools Day) with a silly story about plans to move Whaleback Lighthouse from its offshore ledge near Kittery, Maine, to the site of the old Yoken's restaurant on Route 1 in Portsmouth, NH. The story may or may not have made you laugh, but I hope it got your attention. If it at least did that, I consider it somewhat successful. I hope some readers also caught the underlying intent.

Much of my time these days, as the operations manager of Friends of Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse and the first vice president of the American Lighthouse Foundation, is occupied by the need to bring attention to the cause of lighthouse preservation. I've been sending out press releases and posting on the social networking sites. Sometimes I feel like I'm shouting into a void, but I've got to keep trying.

In these tough times, donations are down and every dollar is vital. With economic turmoil and troubling international affairs, there's no doubt that a cause like the preservation of historic lighthouses is far down on the list of priorities for many people. In fact, I'd say it's not even close to making the list for most people.

There are so many hands out pleading for our dollars, and human service organizations like the Red Cross and the United Way will always come first for most people. And rightly so.

Meanwhile, the lighthouses aren't healing themselves. The job of keeping these treasures in top condition never ends. Wind, waves, and salt air continue to do their worst; they don't take a break because of a recession. In fact, if you believe the scientists that the weather is getting more severe because of global warming (as I do), the situation is growing more dire all the time.

It's not so dire for those lucky lighthouses that are fortunate enough to 1) be accessible by car, and 2) have adequate facilities for a museum, gift shop, and/or b&b. It's an entirely different story for the organizations managing offshore, hard-to-access lighthouses.

In the situations where you can't bring people to the lighthouse, you have to bring the lighthouse to the people. That was my underlying message in the April Fools Day post about Whaleback Lighthouse being moved to Route 1. Believe me, if it was feasible to actually move Whaleback Lighthouse, we'd have to consider it. Desperate times call for innovation. But not only would the cost be astronomical; it would destroy the historic fabric of the lighthouse to remove it from its perch on a treacherous ledge.

It was built there because Portsmouth was a leading port, and the dangerous ledges at the mouth of the Piscataqua River caused significant losses of life and property before the lighthouse was built. Having the lighthouse where it is serves as a constant reminder of those facts. Its location lends drama to its appearance. It also stands as a memorial to the brave keepers who lived inside it through storms and high seas for so many years.

We'll continue trying to get the word out about lighthouse preservation, and we'll hold events that will raise funds and awareness. It will be frustrating at times, but we plug on because we believe in the cause.

Lighthouses symbolize many things to many people, all of them positive: strength, steadfastness, hope, faith, and guidance among them. I often think that if every person who has derived at least a moment of pleasure from lighthouses would donate even a small amount to lighthouse preservation, we'd have more money than we need.

Historic Lighthouse Will be Moved to Route 1

Whaleback Lighthouse, a granite tower built in 1872, is perched on a wave-swept ledge just offshore from Fort Foster in Kittery, Maine. It’s a beloved icon of the Seacoast, but very few people have the chance to experience it first hand. “It’s hard to raise funds for a lighthouse that people can’t visit,” laments Ross Tracy, chairman of the Friends of Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse (FPHL). FPHL is a chapter of the American Lighthouse Foundation, the organization that was awarded ownership of Whaleback Lighthouse last November.

To solve the dilemma, the directors of FPHL have devised a unique plan. The lighthouse, which is about 60 feet tall, will be carefully dismantled by volunteers, block by block. Volunteers will be expected to bring their own crowbars, and must be capable of lifting 4,000 pounds. "This should be a perfect project for local senior citizens and schoolchildren," says Yvonne Zemotel, treasurer of FPHL.

Each block will be carefully numbered with a waterproof marker. “We’ll most likely use a black Sharpie,” says Tracy. The blocks will be hauled to the vacant lot on Route 1 that was once home to Yoken’s Restaurant, and the tower will be re-assembled in its new home. “We figure the lighthouse will make a nice companion piece to the old Yoken’s ‘Thar She Blows!’ sign,” says Joanne Yeaton, vice chairperson of FPHL.

Asked if the lighthouse will retain any navigational importance so far from the sea, Sharon Mills, secretary of FPHL, replied, “The light and foghorn will be a boon to late night drivers finding their way home from the bars in downtown Portsmouth. To replace the lighthouse off Kittery, we’re thinking of painting the rocks day-glo orange for the benefit of the fishermen.”